Nick Shepherd

Anybody use a dedicated garbage disposal?

thank you, that is exactly the info I was looking for.

I bench grafted 15 apple trees on EMLA-1111 and two pears on OF H87.  I did W&T grafts and the height varies from 3-4" to 12-14" above the roots, wherever the diameters matched.  I have read that EMLA111 grafts should be close to the ground, can I just plant the higher grafted trees deeper to achieve this, or will the 12-14" above ground be a problem?  
I currently have them planted in a "nursery" at the same depth that the rootstock was growing at,  with grafts anywhere from 3-14" above the soil, planning on moving this fall, will that be to late to plant deeper?
How about the pears, same questions, they both were grafted fairly high.

Earlier when I bench grafted a few apples I noticed that the rootstock appeared to have been propagated from cuttings.  So after grafting I gathered the cuttings, dipped into rooting hormone and put into a cutting mix,  At this point it appears that most will root.  I will plant at least a couple and if I decide to plant more trees next year will use these for rootstock but at this point if my grafts take I don't need more apple trees and I was wondering if the EMLA 111 will produce fruit for wildlife?  It would be handy to have a known rootstock variety tree I could collect cuttings from and root more rootstock.  
Are other rootstock varieties as easy to propagate from cuttings, esp MM7?

Can you graft any mulberry variety to any other?  Specifically I want to graft Gerardi to dwarf everbearing.

Anore Jones wrote:My female sea buckthorn have invaded the rest of my garden with persistent underground runners and sprouts up from them
3 times my males have died out so now I need to get another male again. Hoping for more abundant berries.
The females grow tall and vigorously and produce a few delicious berries, seemingly even without any male.
This from the San Juan Islands in Washington State.

Me too!  I have purchased 4 females in two orders and all are alive and thriving.  I have purchased 4 males in four different orders and only one is still alive.  If I get good growth on the male this year I will graft a few limbs to my females for insurance, if it dies the females will have to go.

for me personally it would be too much work to bury the wood.  
I know it's not a hugel but there is contact with the soil, in addition it interacts with the atmosphere and a large number of surface organisms that contribute to the soil food web, probably more than if buried, and definitely more natural.  
From what I read the wood in a hugel will last for years, this will be incorporated/rotted in a couple of years.  I am not knowledgeable enough to say which is better, my guess would be that less carbon would be lost to the atmosphere in a hugel.  
Intuitively I thought it would be good, but I have made numerous mistakes, (sometimes during the same day), often thinking they would be good.

During the winter of 2022 a large (24” diameter) dead tree fell into my field, being old and fat the only way I could move it was to cut it into 6” “coins”.  Instead of just throwing the coins into the woods I placed them along with smaller limbs/logs on top of the soil around the dripline of some of my fruits trees/bushes and mulched around and over them.  the trees don’t seem to have cared either way but now I have two more more large trees that have fell.  Can anyone think of a reason why doing this would be bad?  The ones I used last year are rooting away but should last a couple more years, several have mushrooms growing from them.
I know this isn’t hugelculture, but it would seem some of the same benefits could be achieved.

never had a problem, but most have been bare root.

Is it better to field graft where diameters of scion/rootstock are the same or place the graft lower even if the rootstock is larger.   How high would you consider the max, 3, 4, 5 ft?
Going to graft persimmon,  last year I grafted to limbs because the diameters were similar but now some are not going to work out like I want